| My egg food recipe to be offered throughout the day every day just prior to and during the entire breeding season, then usually two or three times per week in the resting season. I check it often to make sure it hasn't spoiled.
Combine all of the above ingredients. If you're a lazy gardener like me, you can use a food processor - but don't over do it. It will turn into a big ball of mush! When I'm feeling too lazy to clean the big processor, I use my small processor designed to chop nuts or onions - small stuff - I'll use it for the carrot and egg. My birds go crazy when they hear either processor going. They know the "good stuff" is coming! The mix should be crumbly – the consistency of crumb cake topping - and will smell somewhat like cake batter. If it is overly dry or wet, add a little water or dry egg food mentioned above until the desired consistency is obtained. Store this mixture in a zipper bag or closed container in the refrigerator. The birds will eat approximately 2 tablespoons per day, sometimes more once they realize they like it – it should be offered every day just prior to and during the breeding season and until chicks fledge (leave the nest). You may adjust the amount of the egg food as you see them consume it. In warmer weather, it is best to remove the egg food after about two hours to avoid spoilage. This mixture will last approximately 1 week in the refrigerator. While I make sure they have it during breeding season, I usually offer it in the resting season 2 days per week as well, less the vitamin supplements. TIP: Pack the mixture into ice cube trays and freeze. Once the mixture is completely frozen, dump it into a zipper bag for storage. Pull one cube out per pair of birds in a cage and offer right from the freezer. I've also been known to add frozen peas or other vegetables I have on hand. When I'm feeling especially lazy or don't have time to chop, I use the fresh frozen cut mixed vegetables that come in a bag though I'm not sure the vitamin content is as good as that of fresh veggies. Feel free to experiment with different combinations of fruits and vegetables. You may find your birds are particularly fond of some not mentioned here! If you don't want to make your own egg food, try Morning Bird Products' Miracle Meal. I use it as a substitute for my own egg food when I don't have time to make it fresh. My birds devour it! NO avocado or onion please! |
| Gouldians (Australian finches in general) have three very specific seasons in the wild in which their diet changes - Breeding/Molting, Resting, and Austerity. Because of this, I change my seed mix and supplements as the needs of my birds change. |
| When I first started on my birding journey, I used prepared finch and canary mixes. At that time I had so many different types of birds that if one didn't like a particular kind of seed, one of the others would step up and eat it. Then when I began concentrating solely on Gouldians, I spent many years observing seed hulls daily and hand mixing my own seed. But what I learned over the years is that there is no one seed mix that will satisfy their every cycle, and no matter what you give them, they will NOT eat every single seed. Gouldians will pick and choose what they need, depending on their cycle and season. It is therefore best and least expensive to choose a high quality seed mix made specifically for the species you keep and stick with it. If you pay close attention, you'll notice that a breeding Gouldian will more than likely consume more canary grass seed. Once chicks hatch, the birds will consume huge amounts of soft food and eat very little seed at all until the chicks are about 5 days old. They feed the chicks a fine crop milk that is pre-digested soft food. The crops will look as if they are filled with hand-feeding formula. At approximately 5 days old, the parents will start off feeding the chicks some of the dark oily seeds along with the crop milk (here, niger seed specifically), then as the chicks grow (at about 10 days), start feeding them more of the millets and other seeds. Molting Gouldians will consume more of the dark, oily seeds. And resting birds tend to go for the millets. I have many pages of fine details from my research - too many to share here - and results may vary in your aviary depending on light, heat, humidity, and overall environment, but that is the norm for any aviary! Every single breeder will have different results based on those variables. But if you choose to buy pet store seed, here are a few humble opinions (you know me, always with the "humble opinions"!). First, I personally don't like the looks of some of the prepackaged mixes on the market. I don't like the food coloring in some of them - the seeds are supposedly coated with "vitamins" - but I have no real idea what is on them or how much each bird is actually eating with the "color" on it. In all honesty, I don't trust anyone to supplement my birds but me! I need to know exactly what is going in them and at what quantity! Mixes with pellets are great if your birds will eat them, but again, I don't like the food coloring or "attractant" fruit flavored additives. My birds won't eat pellets, and because they receive their vitamins and minerals in their soft food, I do not add pellet to my birds' feed. Most pellets were designed for and tested on hookbills, with a wee bit of tweaking for finches. Why in the world would we give them something that wasn't created specifically for them? It doesn't make any sense to me. They may end up nutritionally deficient or get more than what they need and end up with hypervitaminosis, liver or kidney damage! To me, it is better to give them exactly what they need, and not something they don't or won't eat. If you choose to purchase prepackaged seed, be sure to read the ingredients. Gouldians are AUSTRALIAN finches and require a seed mix made for Australian finches. A basic finch mix isn't going to give them what they need. So what do I give my birds now? Again, after spending YEARS counting seed hulls, recording the amount left in each dish, and paying close attention to when the birds transitioned to their next cycle (determined by the type of seed they ate), I had finally created what I considered to be the right mixes for my Gouldians. Between the seed mixes I used and the specific supplements, I had also achieved near perfect health in my aviary. However, even knowing what they need and what I give them, I have to admit when something is better! What did I find and why is it better? The Birds R Us seed line - IT'S ALIVE!!! Over the last year I was introduced to the Birds R Us (BRU) line of seed. I spent 6 months testing it first on 3 pair of Gouldians I knew would eat anything I threw in front of them. I watched them carefully and monitored their overall health and droppings. I began to see a difference within the first few weeks. Not necessarily in feather quality (my feather quality is already hard to beat!), but in health and vigor. The most amazing change was in their droppings. They went from normal size, slightly wet, with dark brown/grey fecal portion and a fairly tidy albeit yellowish urate portion (tinted yellow from the water supplements) to neat and tidy, brown (no grey) fecal portions with perfectly snow white urates. Being the "poopologist" that I am, it was blatantly obvious to me that I had never really seen "normal" poop until now - it was so blatant that I actually took photos! The difference was tremendous! This is VERY exciting to me!! After sitting down and taking a really close look at the line, I realized that my own mixes were almost identical with the exception of a few seeds I could not obtain. However, "live" seed makes such a huge difference that I had to see if I was imagining things. In every test cage, I placed a seed cup of my own hand-mixed seed next to a seed cup of the BRU seed. In every cage, the BRU seed was completely gone, while the birds had barely touched my own mixes. They KNEW the difference and would only peck at the other dish when the BRU dish was empty. I was so impressed with the overall results that I slowly transitioned the balance of my flock over to the seed line. From a breeders standpoint with a large flock, it is fairly expensive. However, when you factor in the money you save in supplements, the money you save on Vet visits, the ease of use, and the increased breeding results, you'll understand why it makes sense to offer live seed. It really ends up being less expensive in the long run. There is just no comparison! And when you add the Complete Soft Food at 1/2 teaspoon per bird per day during Breed/Molt (unless feeding chicks, at which point they receive all they can consume and feed to the chicks in a 24 hour period), it is extremely economical and efficient! Okay, so after reading my site, you all know I am really honest, goofy, have a very odd sense of humor, and in some cases, am almost cruelly blunt about caring for these birds. So why am I no longer mixing my own seed??? No, I've not joined a cult. No, I've not gone crazy (or any crazier than I already am anyway) and no, I am not trying to market or sell a product just because I carry it. I don't play those kinds of games and I don't try to sell folks stuff they don't need. BUT, I only give my birds the best there is and I'm truly convinced this seed line is it! Yes, I am still a self-thinker, a doubting Thomas, and an "I'll believe it when I see it myself" kind of gal! But I have tested this entire line and am completely, utterly, and 110% convinced this is the best seed available! The birds are healthier than I've ever seen them and they produced so many chicks in their first round of breeding in 2010 that I had to pull down the nest boxes because I just plain ran out of room! Oh, and as a special bonus, I'm seeing chick sizes that range anywhere from 10-20% LARGER than their parents! I'm just blown away by the results. For me to say it or even admit something is better than my own methods is very telling. I don't pass judgement lightly! Unlike pet store seed or even wholesale seed distributor seed which is typically "seconds", the BRU seed is "growers seed". It is guaranteed to grow, guaranteed for a minimum amount of weed seed content, and certified by the FDA. The seed is not coated, does not have any extra vitamins added, and is nothing but live growers seed. Even if you do not choose to use the Mike Fidler Complete Soft Food, this seed line is excellent and can be used with any other supplement system. Not only that, it is excellent for ALL AUSTRALIAN SPECIES, not just Gouldians! I'm even working on "species specific" diets for my Africans and Cubans using the Premium Finch seed as a base. I'll post those recipes on the species pages once they are complete! So what about supplements?? I began testing the Mike Fidler Complete Soft Food (CSF) in August 2011 when it first returned to the market after a long hiatus. Because it was originally created and distributed from Australia, it tended to have trouble getting through customs. It has been off the market for just over a year. Long story, but nothing out of the ordinary for the USA customs! The CSF is a complete protein, mineral and vitamin supplement that gets mixed in to the "chitted" Black & White Sprout combination. While I was waiting for the manufacturer to begin creating it here in the USA, I began "chitting" the Black & White sprout as directed, and offering my birds a concoction of my own making to simulate the Complete Soft Food and prepare them well in advance of the mix. Like "beans & rice", different combinations create a complete protein! It was a lot of work figuring out how to get them something similar, but my priming worked well and when I began feeding the Complete Soft Food mixture to my birds, they ate it readily. I did find that for the first 3 weeks, their water intake was as much as 5x their norm, so had to pay very close attention so that they didn't run out of water during the day. However, once they acclimated to the CSF, their water intake returned to normal and is now back to approximately 1/2 ounce of water per bird per day. Because the CSF is now being produced here in the USA and is currently available, there is no more waiting for new shipments to arrive from Australia! I have found it to be extremely easy and simple. I make up enough of the chitted seed/CSF mix to last about a month and store it in the freezer. I don't have to mix water supplements, and I don't have to change drinkers daily unless I want to (but I do anyway!). I am free to medicate if necessary without worrying about combining supplements with medications, and my birds are free to drink water without having to worry it will taste bad because of supplements. However, should you choose to use the CSF, be sure your birds are eating it well before you remove any other supplements you may have been giving them! I will keep Morning Bird Calcium Plus, Dr. Rob Marshall's supplements, and my own Lugol's solution on hand in case something comes up. I like to be prepared and don't want to be "without" should the need arise! |
| During the breeding and molting seasons, Goulds require additional dark, oily seed. These oily seeds are typically black or very dark in color and contain the amino acids essential for reproductive health of adult birds, give the extra energy needed during breeding season, and aid in preparing them for the rigors of molt. These seeds are also important to ensure proper feather growth in young chicks. My own mixes are excellent and VERY close to the Birds R Us diets...with one huge difference. The Birds R Us is "grower seed". That means it is guaranteed to be ALIVE!!! Much of what we purchase in pet stores or at feed dealers is not graded to actually grow in the fields and is therefore not as viable as the Birds R Us seed. |
| Sometimes we forget to listen to our own best advice. Other times we forget to listen to our instincts. If you are having great success with any mix you are currently using, please do not change it. If your birds are happy and healthy and produce strong young, don't change what you are doing! If you mess with success, the results can be disastrous! |
| During the Resting Season: Monday & Tuesday - A liquid multi-vitamin, liquid calcium (with D3 & magnesium to aid in absorption) and liquid iodine are added to the water Wednesday - Friday - calcium and iodine are added to water Saturday - plain fresh water Sunday - Dr. Rob Marshall's KD Cleanser mixed at a rate of 1/4 tsp per quart - this is used every Sunday no matter which supplement system my birds are on. |
| Not all birds are equally accepting of new foods or even the same foods as others in the cage. If you choose to offer fresh greens, you may have to try various types of greens in small amounts to see what they like and will actually eat - literally one small leaf at a time per day is a good start for a pair of birds. All greens should be thoroughly washed and dried before giving to your birds to avoid poisoning from pesticides and build up of bacteria. My birds had been but no longer receive the following when in season:
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| Year round I offer my birds a combination of trace mineral dust, fine sand grit, crushed oyster shell, crushed sterilized egg shell, shaved cuttlebone, diatomaceous earth and charcoal. This combination is given in a separate seed cup and kept away from the watering devices. I pull this mixture and any seed mixtures when my birds bathe so that they are not contaminated or wet, AND grit is pulled when they require medication of any kind. Wet food and supplements can create molds that are very hazardous to your birds! They are also offered shaved cuttlebone in a separate finger treat cup year round. |
| My Nutritional Programs & Seed Mixes |
| Notes About What & Why |
| Resting Season |
| Egg/Soft Food |
| Fresh Greens |
| Supplements in the Water |
| Mineral Supplements |
| NOTE: |
| After years of paying very close attention to what my birds will and won't eat, I have found that the seeds contained in the plain EM Finch from Herman Brothers Seed work well for the Resting Season. I did sprinkle my Blood Stop & Parasite Control™ and my Breed, Beak & Feather Tweak™ mixture over the food daily. The d-earth keeps both internal and external parasites to a minimum, while the Breed, Beak & Feather Tweak™ provides iodine, calcium, and vitamins the birds need. I did not oil my seed during this time, and most of the birds are released into like sexed flights for exercise and companionship. However, the standard treat cups apply free choice and contain: Herb Salad (year round), and my Gould-Granules™ grit mix . A finger treat cup was and still is always available containing shaved cuttlebone. They were also given Miracle Meal year round - however, I limited the amount of Miracle Meal I placed in the cages during the resting season. The point of the large flights is to promote exercise which takes off any excess weight they may have put on while in the smaller breeding cages. Here, Miracle Meal is the first thing they eat, so I offer less at this time as I believe they put on weight when eating this food - it's like giving candy to a child! |
| Breeding & Molting Seasons |
| For practical reasons, I typically mixed up 10-15 lbs of seed at a time, so the below measures are really approximations. I'm looking for a specific "color" and "consistency" when I mix my seed, but these measures are pretty close to what I'm mixing! During the breeding and molting seasons, I've found the EM Finch needs a few additions to help the parents produce large healthy chicks, and get them through their molt without issue. For BOTH breeding and molting seasons, I use the following (all can be found at Herman Brothers):
To the seed mix, I add my Pro-Mix™ (6 oz to 10 lbs of seed). I do NOT recommend offering the protein mix "free choice" in a treat cup. I have also noticed that here, my Goulds consume less canary grass seed during the molt. You may want to adjust the amount of canary grass seed if you find your birds are not eating as much. There's no sense in wasting the seed if they aren't eating it! I then oiled my seed with either Cod Liver Oil, Wheat Germ Oil fortified with vitamins A, D3 and E, Vetafarm's Breeding Aid (the Cod Liver Oil works best for BLUE Gouldians), OR Dr. Rob Marshall's Turbobooster (not all of them - choose one)! I allowed it to sit overnight in the refrigerator to soak into the seed, then sprinkled my Breed, Beak & Feather Tweak™, Blood Stop & Parasite Control™, and Dr. Rob Marshall's E-Powder over the seed and mashed it through the seed. |
| Due to some recurring bacterial issues for which I'd not found a reason, I had stopped offering ALL wet foods - including fresh egg food and fresh greens. Now I realize some folks are screaming from the gallery right now, but it had been nearly two years and I'd had nothing but perfectly healthy and gorgeous Goulds without the wet foods, though I must admit there is nothing like a sprout-fed chick! Bigger, healthier, gorgeous If you are not having issues with bacteria in your aviary, and your birds are eating everything you give them - DO NOT STOP OFFERING THEM WET FOODS!!! If it works for you and your birds, do not change what you are doing!!! BUT, if you are finding you are having bacterial issues and just can't locate the source, consider your wet foods first! Heat and humidity all play a part in how fast wet foods spoil - just something to think about! BUT, I am now offering "chitted" BRU Black & White Sprout that has been soaked in Virkon S for 2 hours, then allowed to drain. I do NOT rinse the soaked seed, merely drain the liquid off. I then mix in the CSF and have had NO issues since using the Virkon S. My birds are happy and extraordinarily healthy. Another option for soaking the seed is Dr. Rob Marshall's KD Cleanser. When mixed properly, it too will keep bacteria and mold at bay. |
| For those of you who wish to continue using my egg food recipe, I've left it here for your perusal! |
| During the Breeding Season: Monday & Tuesday - A liquid multi-vitamin, liquid calcium (with D3 & magnesium to aid in absorption) and liquid iodine are added to the water Wednesday - Saturday - calcium and iodine are added to water Sunday - Dr. Rob Marshall's KD Cleanser mixed at a rate of 1/4 tsp per quart - this is used every Sunday no matter which supplement system my birds are on. Some hens require an additional boost of calcium. If you see their cuttlebone consumption go up, they are probably preparing to lay. I will sometimes "up" my liquid calcium to 1 1/2 times the normal amount for these hens. |
| During the Molting Season: Monday & Tuesday - A liquid multi-vitamin, Biotin, liquid calcium (with D3 & magnesium to aid in absorption) and liquid iodine are added to the water Wednesday - Saturday - calcium and iodine are added to water Sunday - Dr. Rob Marshall's KD Cleanser mixed at a rate of 1/4 tsp per quart - this is used every Sunday no matter which supplement system my birds are on. |
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| Before I go on, I must impress upon you the importance of good nutrition. Get the nutrition right and you'll have a lot less trouble with your birds! We know eating healthy can be expensive, and it can be the same for the birds. But you will always see better results with higher quality seed and species specific supplements. Not all seed blends are for all finches, so be sure to know what YOUR species needs and feed them appropriately! |
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| Please keep in mind that my birds have been offered the Dr. Rob Marshall system for as long as it has been available (approximately 10 years). I still sell and keep the entire system on hand because I feel it is the best supplement system on the market when giving "water/food additive" supplements, though I do keep other items such as liquid calcium and iodine on hand for emergencies. Birds new to my aviary are still given the Marshall supplements until their 90 days quarantine period is over and I'm certain they are eating the Mike Fidler Complete Soft Food consistently. If you are offering "water/food combination" supplements, it is my humble opinion that the Rob Marshall system is the best on the market, while the Birds R Us system is the best "food only" supplement system. I will continue to use both as the situation requires, but not mixed together unless the birds are not eating the CSF! |
WATER/FOOD SUPPLEMENTATION COMBINATION
| So what if you don't want to use the Birds R Us products? I've left my previous entries below. Read on to see what I used to do! |
| Amazingly Simple... |
| This system is so easy it’s almost a crime. You give them the seed they need determined by their cycle. So if they are breeding or molting, you give them the Breed/Molt mix. If they are resting, you give them the Resting/Maintenance mix. If they should be going through austerity, you give them the Austere mix. They receive only their seasonal seed, the chit/soft food mix, grit and plain water. That’s it! The Black & White Sprout are created to work together as a system – the combined nutrients from the seeds contained in those mixes, when chitted, give them just the right amount of vegetable protein and carbohydrates. Once combined with the Complete Soft Food, they receive all the other nutrients they require to thrive (animal protein, vitamins, minerals, etc.). The only other REQUIRED item to this system is a good grit mix with both soluble and insoluble calcium grit and, of course, PLAIN water. So let’s look at the Breed/Molt season... Breed/Molt seed mix – give as much as they can eat and never let it run out. Mike Fidler likes to use seed hoppers so that they can eat any seed from the mix they want at any given time - it's always available and never runs out. I prefer to give my birds approximately 1 tablespoon of seed per pair of birds. I like to know exactly what they are eating and record it daily so that I can tell when they are moving to their next cycle. My birds never run out of seed with this amount, but I am also very vigilant and in that bird room most of the day. IF a cage were to run out of seed, I'd know it and offer them more. How you deliver the seed is up to you! As long as they have seed available at all times, you're good to go! To chit the Black & White Sprout – Here, I begin the process early in the morning. I use 1 gallon of Virkon S (4 tablets to a gallon and mix it with HOT water) split between 2 parts White Sprout seed and 1 part Black Sprout (here, that means 4 cups White and 2 cups Black). I personally chit them in two different containers as directed by Mike Fidler (see his video on the home page of this site!). I pour the Virkon S over the containers and allow the seed to soak in the solution for about 2 hours, stirring occasionally as I pass by. I personally like to chit the seed on top of my dryer while it is running (with 4 kids, I do a LOT of laundry!). The hot water softens the seed quicker, and the heat and humidity from the dryer make it chit quickly and evenly. After the 2 hours are up (approximately 2 1/2 loads of drying laundry), I drain both sets of soaked seed. I DO NOT rinse it, but tip it so that all liquid can drain out of it. I then allow it to continue to drain overnight, again giving it a stir occasionally as I pass by. By morning, many of the seeds have itty-bitty tails called “chits” on them. You may not be able to see every seed with a chit, and that’s okay, but this is the point when the seed is the most nutritious. The Virkon S keeps it from molding or growing fungus of any kind. Now that the “chit” is completely drained and almost completely dry (yes, dry is good!), I combine the Black & White together until evenly mixed. I then add 1/2 part (1 cup) of the Complete Soft Food to the chitted seed mix, mixing until it completely coats all of the seed. It isn’t hard at all to do. I then either feed it directly to the birds, or store it in a Sterlite tub in the freezer. The lid of the Sterlite container doesn’t “seal” completely and therefore allows the mix to breathe – just like the black bags the seed comes in! I then take it out each morning and offer it to the birds at a rate of ½ well rounded teaspoon PER BIRD PER DAY unless they are feeding chicks. If they are feeding chicks, they are given as much as they can eat and feed to the chicks in a 24 hour period. This amount may start off as a couple of well rounded teaspoons while the chicks are newly hatched, but by the time the chicks are nearly weaned, it may be as much as 1/4 cup per day or more! As the chicks need more food, the parents will consume more of the soft food. If you see it disappearing, give them more! It's okay! Honest! I have also found that when they are feeding chicks, they nearly leave the seed alone and feed only the chitted/soft food mixture. And let me tell you - the results are spectacular! HUGE chicks that in most cases, even before feathering, are already larger than their parents! Amazing! Yes, I feed the mix frozen - my birds actually prefer it still frozen. And I change the chit/soft food dishes daily. I don't like to tempt fate and take the chance that it may spoil. However, the Virkon S keeps it from spoiling and the mix will stay good in the freezer for up to a year! Because I only have to make it up once per month or so, it saves me a TON of work. They get nothing but grit mix and plain water in addition to the chit/soft food mix and seed. Done! During the Resting season, the birds receive the Rest/Maintenance mix (always available and as much as they want), but only 1/2 well rounded teaspoon per bird TWICE PER WEEK. They still receive grit and plain water. But giving the chit/soft food mixture more often will defeat the purpose of the "resting" period. Think about this - the resting period in the wild falls somewhere between the molt and the austerity period. It is when the rich seed heads are beginning to wane. Resting allows the birds to slowly prepare their bodies for the rigor of austerity and minimal food resources and gives them a bit less of a rich diet. It's okay - they won't starve, and they'll still have plenty of stores built up. During Austerity, they only receive the plain Austere seed mix and plain water. That’s it. NO CHIT/SOFT FOOD and NO GRIT!! They always think they are starving during this time though, so I usually add a wee bit of the Resting mix to it until they get over the fact that they will just have to work a little harder to get the seed kernel out of the grass seeds in the Austere mix. In the wild, the food sources would now be waning to the point of almost no food at all. My birds do tend to fluff and get mad at me, hanging on the cage bars trying to tell me they need something, but I have yet to lose a bird and it has worked as planned to drop the extra weight, shrink their reproductive organs, and drop the last of the birds out of condition. They don't like it because they have been spoiled all these years! However, austerity only lasts approximately 4 weeks. After the first week of Austerity, I no longer mix the Resting mix in. They figure it out pretty quickly! Now, I have apparently been using the austerity system wrong these last two cycles (yes, even I make mistakes!). I have been leaving the grit in the cages. It makes sense to me that in the wild the birds would still be able to pick at dirt and minerals, therefore it makes sense to leave those items available to them. However, I have been informed that Mike Fidler removes the grit during austerity in order to clear the liver of extra calcium. That makes sense too, but here's where I'm back to "Doubting Thomas". I'm not sure removing the grit is the right thing to do. This "not so average bear" has to test it first to believe it, so NEXT austerity I will test it on my 3 test pairs in a controlled environment and see how it goes. IF I find no harm done, I will also remove the grit during austerity. But the jury is still out at this point! We shall see! NOTE: You want to make sure that you continue to give them whatever supplements you are currently using until you are convinced they are eating the Complete Soft Food. I still have to give a few of my birds extra calcium and iodine, and even occasionally vitamin supplements because they are not yet consistently eating the soft food and aren't eating enough of the grit to my satisfaction. My Blue Caps absolutely REFUSE to eat the soft food, so I still give them the Marshall supplements and bugs - yes, I said bugs. No, this does not mean I've changed my mind about bugs - I DON'T DO BUGS - but they are getting them until I see them eating the soft food mixture! The Silverbills have devoured the soft food since the day they arrived, so I have no problem eliminating insects from their diet though I will pay attention to their breeding needs. Some species other than Australians may require additional food stuffs in order to raise their clutches on their own. I will make those adjustments as necessary! Any new birds I bring in also receive the Marshall supplements in their water until they finish their 90 day quarantine and/or I’m sure they are eating the soft food well. And that's it! Almost too good to be true! |
| The question has been raised about how one knows "when" to change the seed mixes and run the birds through a particular cycle. This, of course, will be different in every aviary depending on your own environment and when the birds were born or last molted. You will have to tailor your schedules to fit your needs and those of your birds. However, I've created a page to address this issue and have included it both here and from a link on the main Nutrition page. It has my "approximate" schedules and an explanation of why they are "approximate". |