| You've created your plan and selected a location, now it's time to choose and set up a breeding cage. A breeding cage is merely an extended version of a regular housing cage with a few exceptions and additions. Use the information here to help you decide what system is best for your own birds, and see how I've set up mine! Also remember, just because it works for me doesn't mean it will work for you! Do what works for YOU! |
| There are many types of cages available for housing and breeding your birds. You can use a standard wire cage (with the recommended dimensions as described in the cage section of the housing page). However, different cage types may work better depending on the location you've chosen to breed your birds. If your birds will be housed in a well-populated and busy area of your home, a closed-sided cage with a wire front may work better for you. If your birds have a room to themselves or are housed in an area with little traffic, a simple wire cage will work fine! However... |
| As with a regular cage, you may want a second or third set of food dishes, extra water bottles, perches, etc. You will also need something to contain nesting materials such as a wire or plastic salad holder or a mesh bag - the type onions come in. I've also used plastic mesh strawberry crates when colony breeding. The point is that just about anything can hold nesting materials as long as the birds can pull the hairs through the container and use them in their nest. "Necessity is the mother of invention!" Use what works for you! |
| It has been said that Gouldian finches prefer peace and quiet and may abandon their eggs or chicks if disturbed. I have found this to be quite the opposite. If my birds think it is too quiet, they will call for one another and twitter nervously until someone answers! They are more likely to abandon eggs and chicks when they cannot hear and see the other birds! It's really quite amazing after all of the stories I've heard! |
| Though my birds are housed in a room with many other birds and are subjected to a lot of commotion, I have chosen simple wire cages in which to breed them. |
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| My bird room has changed significantly since this photo was taken and will continue to change as I add birds or figure out a better way to set it up - I'm all about efficiency! But these photos give an idea of how close the cages are to a portion of my breeding and flight cages. They are very near one another allowing the birds to see and call to each other. The birds don't seem to mind - perhaps because they are used to my presence. The proximity seems to give them a sense of safety. Notice how the cages are hung on the wall. This makes cleaning up seed and feathers a cinch! I have used plain metal shelving brackets, dividing the length of the cage over 4 brackets. The cages are literally hung on them. I used to use a second set of brackets under the cage trays for extra support, but have since discovered these were unnecessary. |
| This photo is old but shows one of my favorite breeding set-ups. Since I only keep a minimal number of breeding birds, these cages are perfect. They are standard 30" wide wire cages making them easy to clean with minimal disturbance to the birds - even though I ALWAYS have my hands in the cage! I have placed a single-bulb, full spectrum fluorescent light on top of each cage for optimal lighting. The lights are on timers. This photo makes the room look much darker than it actually is. Because this is an outside wall, I have placed an indoor/outdoor thermometer on the center cage to monitor the temperature. I try to allow the birds fresh air at all times but do not want the room to fall below 58 degrees. The open window must be closed if this is the case. On the right, you can see my seed tub, the auxiliary heater, and my makeshift hospital cages. On the left, my slate chalk board and dishwasher, along with a spare cage I use in case of emergency or new bird quarantine - all handy items to have on hand if you are able! |
| This photo shows one of the 30" wide breeding cages. I have not placed any birds in this cage at this time. Notice there are several perches of varying size, including the crazy manzanita perch, several fixed perches, a sand perch and a swinging perch. There are dishes for supplemented seed, oyster, grit, charcoal, Trace Minerals combination, egg food, and Niger seed. I used to clip cuttlebone near a perch but have since begun using shaved cuttlebone - much less waste, much less work - along with a one-day water bottle, and have hung spray millet from the top of the cage with a clothespin. A salad holder holds nesting hairs. On occasion, I use paper over the grates to keep the cage bottom clean longer. I have labeled the trays and light fixtures with indelible marker with the cage number. This happens to be Breeder #1. |
| Here are just some of the types of nesting hairs you can use. From left to right - Alfalfa, Sisal, and Bermuda Grass. Some birds prefer one type over another, some birds aren't choosy! You may have to try a little of each to see just which hairs they prefer. Many birds won't even use the extra nesting hairs you give them! While I find my Goulds aren't too picky, I personally prefer a Cotton-Sisal-Jute-Coconut combination (We call it 4-Way), as it contains nearly everything "I like" in it. You may find your birds prefer one over another! Goulds don't "make nests" in the wild. They usually breed in tree hollows or take over a parakeet nest. The hollows merely have a few shavings left in them, so the chicks are raised |
| My best producing pairs have never abandoned eggs or chicks, even if I've checked the nest box several times a day! They are accustomed to my hands, the frequent removal of the nest for inspection, the vacuum noise, the cat and the dog and my children, and they produce a good number of healthy chicks each season. Perhaps I have been lucky or perhaps I have been stupid, but the more commotion in the bird room the better my pairs produce! In fact, the chicks of these pairs will often feed their new siblings if left in the cage after the new clutches arrive! Go figure! NOTE: This behavior is apparently NOT the norm. It is merely MY experience. I would not recommend this type of situation to a novice breeder or one who has kept their birds in a peaceful environment! |
| Larger cages are also bolted to the wall through the brackets with screws and washers. This keeps them from tipping forward when I pull the trays for cleaning. The large cage is Flight #1 and houses juveniles from the current year. I keep majestic palms in the room for ambiance AND for natural perches for my birds - this is why the one pictured is so "thin" - I keep cutting branches for the birds! The lower flight cage, of which only a small portion can be seen (bottom right) houses saleable birds and has a divider to make catching up the birds easier. A thermometer/hygrometer is located on the wall next to the right-hand breeders. |
| in a nearly bare nest. I always line my nest boxes with nesting material then offer them additional material in a nesting hair holder (wire salad holder). Some birds go nuts and build more of the nest to their liking, others merely toss the material out or do nothing more than what I've already done for them. You'll have to experiment with your birds! If you don't want to purchase nesting hairs, you can use clean dryer lint that has no soap residue. I've had many folks ask me if the "perfume" from dryer sheets affects the birds. I have never had an issue using my dryer lint even when I use dryer sheets or liquid softener in my laundry! But again, this is just my experience! If it worries you, try a different type of nesting material! I've heard of other breeders using tissue, paper toweling and shredded newspaper! If it works for you and your birds like it, go for it! My birds are currently favoring emu feathers and white chicken feathers. |
| I always place the nesting materials in the basic form of a nest in the nest box. Goulds aren't the greatest nest builders, so I'm merely helping them out! This nest box is shallow. There are now nest boxes made specifically for Goulds that are deeper and have a smaller opening - some even have a "porch". This keeps the birds from tossing their eggs or chicks, but they are more difficult to check when needed. The hygrometer on left side of the photo is showing about a 65% humidity rate. This is the natural humidity in my bird room. The thermometer on the right side of the photo is showing just shy of 75 degrees. The window is open - this is the temp the natural air is providing. |
| You'll also want to keep the items included on the You Have Eggs and When the Chicks Hatch pages on hand! Also see Optional Equipment for additional items you may want or need. |
| Please keep in mind that the above setup is just what works for ME! I have kept large walk-in aviaries, only to lose control of my breeding stock. I've used solid sided cages to find they are more difficult to keep clean and take more time for maintenance. I have found this room and setup to work best for my birds and helps expedite cage cleaning. You have to make your setup work for YOU! Don't be afraid to try new things, and if you have questions, send me a note! I'll be happy to try to walk you through any difficulties you may come across! |
| Setting Up a Breeding Cage |
| Cage Type |
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| Indoor/Outdoor thermometer, plastic nest box with lid removed, wire salad/nesting hair holder. |
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